Take Two: ‘Diner Ross’ Becomes a Steakhouse

Spiegelworld/DiscoShow’s ‘DINER ROSS STEAKHOUSE’ returns to the table with elevated basics…and wildly successful results…

If at first you don’t succeed…try to be more like Spiegelworld. Once an upstart challenger to Cirque du Soleil, Ross Mollison‘s humble circus company grew into an entertainment empire. So much so that a traveling version of ‘ABSINTHE‘, called ‘EMPIRE‘, spread Sin City madness across the nation.

EMPIRE was a roadshow version of ABSINTHE

Not every Spiegelworld creation has resonated. OPIUM struggled to find an audience before folding in 2023, and Vegas Nocturne lasted a mere six months. But that’s the beauty of taking risks when you’re a powerhouse innovator. You dust yourself off and try something new.

It’s a sold-out crowd every evening at THE PARTY, the dinner show at Cosmopolitan

This summer, OPIUM gave way to The Party, an adults-only dinner show at SUPERFRICO that became a runaway success (see our review here). And now they’ve given a major overhaul to Diner Ross, a companion restaurant to the retro dance spectacular DiscoShow.

VEGAS 411 archive photo

My initial review for DINER ROSS was a real downer. It contained quotes like “Nope nope nope” and “After one meal, I’m not eager to return.” And I didn’t. The menu was just too outlandish, with choices like “Turf Tartare”, “Mussels and Fries”, and “Duck with Grapes”. Those dishes belong in some highbrow joint at Fontainebleau, not a diner at The Linq.

Much of my chagrin was leveled at Executive Culinary Director Anna Altieri, who was seemingly given free rein to go wild….and wildly overboard. As it turns out, Chef Altieri left Diner Ross…and Las Vegas…a few months later. The restaurant’s menu quietly evolved without her, while its excellent atmosphere and service remained.

It’s almost unfortunate that I never gave Diner Ross another chance. Witnessing its growth might have been exciting. Then again, that would have lessened the wonderful impact of the newly rebranded DINER ROSS STEAKHOUSE. No longer a “collision of culinary worlds” as I previously labeled it, the restaurant now has an established identity…seventies-era finer dining.

VEGAS 411 archive photo

Think of Diner Ross Steakhouse as the steakhouse equivalent of Superfrico‘s “psychedelic Italian” concept—familiar dishes given a dash of Spiegelworld spice. Both restaurants boast a wacky, themed atmosphere. For DRS, it’s the disco era, complete with hits of the seventies playing overhead.

You might spot the occasional roller disco enthusiast wheeling past your table, or receive a visit from “Tina” and other memorable characters from the DiscoShow tie-in production (see my DiscoShow review here). Anything goes at a Spiegelworld establishment, and the fun begins with its team members (a special shout-out to our server, Alfredo).

Staffers at adjacent Glitter Loft welcome you before and after dinner…

General Manager Bradley Reader tells Vegas 411 that the new concept was quietly rolled out over a month ago. Mr. Reader’s team received a thorough course in the culinary artistry of steaks. The training was performed, of course, in a typically quirky Spiegelworld style:

“What better way to give them a proper education as to where the cuts come from than show them on an actual cow!” – Bradley Reader, Diner Ross Steakhouse

GM Bradley Reader (left) and Executive Chef Brittany Snyder take steaks very seriously…

No ordinary classroom…

A fun-filled atmosphere may be the most obvious thing that sets Diner Ross Steakhouse apart from more formal steakhouses. But frivolity can only get a dining establishment so far. Here, the “meat and potatoes” are beautifully curated by Executive Chef Brittany Snyder.

I met Chef Brittany at Spiegelworld’s headquarters in Nipton, CA, earlier this year. When I learned that she was now leading the DRS kitchen, my excitement heightened. Chef Brittany, along with Reader and Executive Director of Hospitality Natasha Gonzalez, understands the magnitude and lasting impact of a “positive Vegas experience.” At Diner Ross Steakhouse, the proof was on every plate.

Popovers with Foie Gras Pate and Sour Cherry

We started our meal with warm-from-the-oven Popovers (above). You can add Foie Gras Pate, Sour Cherry, or Oscietra Caviar for an additional charge.

Bone Marrow Bites with Short Rib

Bone Marrow Bites and Dirty Martini Salad

Next came a beautiful Dirty Martini Salad, made with bibb lettuce, olives, Roquefort, pickled onions, sweet drop peppers, and a Juniper Vinaigrette. Appetizers included Bone Marrow Bites (with cherry braised short rib, pickled onion, and chives, above right), Filet Tartare Tacos, and Thai Shrimp over mango-jicama slaw (below).

Filet Tartare Tacos

Thai Shrimp

Other offerings under Apps & Smalls include Oysters On The Rocks, Coconut Seabass Ceviche, Peaches & Burrata, Fried Olives (with pork sausage and sage), and a Baked Potato Croquette.

14 oz Mishima USDA Prime Ribeye and Mushroom Steak Tips with Creamy Polenta (right, rear)

Steakhouse-style shareable sides include Green Beans, Creamed Spinach, and Potato Puree

A5 & The Gang (3 oz each, above right) includes NY Strip (NZ), A5 Ribeye (Japan), and Filet Mignon (AU)

There are numerous other steaks to choose from, including Filet Mignon (8 oz boneless or 16 oz bone-in), a 10 oz Hanger Steak, Steak Frites, and the granddaddy…a 32 oz Tomahawk. Additional entrees include a dry-aged Pork Ribeye, Jidori Chicken, Steelhead Trout, a short rib/brisket Delancy Burger, and Buffalo Chicken Schnitzel.

Are you feeling for “surf”? Then try the Diner Ross Seafood Tower, piled high with poached lobster, jumbo crab cocktail, chilled shrimp, shucked oysters, and ponzu mignonette.

There’s plenty more to cover, including Niki Novich‘s era-centric cocktails and mocktails, a lengthy wine list, and desserts to die for. You can peruse the full food and libations menu here. But if our VEGAS 411 photos have made you hungry, follow this link right now to make a reservation.

Photos courtesy of Diner Ross Steakhouse

I’m not a professional food critic by trade, so I won’t try to fake my way through an analysis of selection, preparation, and presentation. Those reviews are best offered by our colleagues at EATER VEGAS, who rated the original incarnation of Diner Ross as “Best New Restaurant of 2024”.

Photos courtesy of Diner Ross Steakhouse

For many who visit Las Vegas, “one fancy meal” is usually on the to-do list. But not everyone has the budget (or wardrobe) for the likes of Don’s Prime, Mother Wolf, Delilah, Wakuda, or Bouchon. For them…and many of our residents…Diner Ross Steakhouse is the perfect choice.

Diner Ross Steakhouse is a come-as-you-are elevated experience that’s high on pleasure without the pretense. And if you arrive after 8 pm, there’s a three-course dinner special for only $48 per person.

Photo courtesy of Diner Ross Steakhouse

As Diner Ross celebrates a full year of operations at Linq Hotel, it’s safe to say that its new Steakhouse concept will top our VEGAS 411 year-end rankings. Look for a “Most Improved Improved Restaurant” Award for Ross Mollison’s disco-dining baby this December. Pair your meal with tickets to DiscoShow and you’ll have the time of your life.

All photos by VEGAS 411 unless otherwise noted

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