Las Vegas Mixtape v14: Culinary Burlesque, Aisles of Treasures, and the Right To Rock

Track #1: Mucho Loco @Summerlin

Imagine bacon-wrapped shrimp served on a mini clothesline and attached with clothespins (yes, you read that right). If you order churros or ice cream, both are brought to your table in miniature carts, along with multiple sweet sauces.

This is culinary burlesque. Exotic cocktails are also poured into mini bathtubs and glasses adorned with replica skulls.

Nothing is ordinary at Mucho Loco. Having opened in September 2023 in the Fort Apache Commons, it’s a sprawling and eye-poppingly colorful Mexican cantina that delivers “crazy” at every turn.

It’s not easy to catch your breath in between bites here, thanks to a live mariachi band, non-stop loud birthday celebrations, and piped-in, high-energy dance music that’s turned up. No worries, then, about having to engage in any intimate conversation.

It turns out that the food is excellent, starting with the complimentary oversized taco chips, green salsa, and an addictive bean dip. The flavors in the queso fundido—a shareable appetizer with melted cheese, poblano chiles, corn, and chorizo—were satisfying.

For my entrée, I chose the outstanding grilled swordfish with a tequila butter sauce, plated with asparagus and (surprise) purple mashed potato.

I heartily applaud all the experimentation going on in the kitchen here. Perhaps next time, I’ll try the “Pulpo Asado.” It’s octopus “slow braised in orange-pineapple and spices marinade, served with “pasta pearls, salsa verde, and micro cilantro.” Now that sounds positively “loco.”